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When assembling a ranking of London’s finest eateries, one might anticipate well-known high-end establishments. But, tucked high among these culinary titans is a simple salonu situated in a far-flung part of north London.

An Unexpected Accolade

The small Turkish restaurant, specialising in the culinary delights of Mersin, a port city on Turkey’s southern coast, has been crowned the 4th best restaurant in the capital by a prominent culinary publication. This honour has made the family totally astonished.

“I’m totally surprised,” says the proprietor, referring to his family’s dedication that culminated in their humble restaurant earning such a lofty spot on a prestigious 99-strong list.

The Character of Modesty

The small shop, which used to be a basic cafe before its conversion into a buzzing spot, has maintained much of its former charm. It fits just over 20 people and, except for the impressive live cooking performance, the interior remains essentially unchanged. “It’s a compact and cozy spot,” comments the owner.

A Star Creation: Tantuni

Ultimately, it’s all down to the fare, and this establishment certainly delivers. The eatery’s signature dish, tantuni, is a simple delight. Choice of meat—lamb or lamb or chicken—is steamed to preserve a tender texture.

It is then tossed into a massive pan with flavours and oil, which are incorporated in slowly. Once the meaty mixture bubbles up, freshly made lavaş—a pliable bread—is slapped on top to take in all the flavours. Finely sliced onions and a sprinkling of parsley go inside before the tasty meat is folded neatly inside.

The wrap is typically consumed with a squeeze of lemon or some tangy accompaniments. The outcome is a powerful burst of taste, with subtle hints of sumac, bold onions and rich, paprika-red oil pulling it all in harmony.

Other Than the Basic Tantuni

Patrons can also try yoğurtlu tantuni, where the meat-filled lavaş is chopped and crowned with yogurt, tomato sauce and cooked, nutty browned butter. A leading food critic called this dish “among London’s few ideal, faultless dishes”.

When it comes to dessert, the restaurant’s künefe is a delight. It is soaked in less syrup than usual, imparting it a deeper, nuttier and less sickly flavour.

Surpassing the Titans

Remarkably, this modest spot has been placed higher than several illustrious three-Michelin-starred restaurants. It finds itself just behind the summit of the list, trailing other notable dining destinations.

While two people could easily leave this place full for less than £25, equivalent meals at luxury establishments can start at significantly more than that amount.

A Philosophy of Hospitality

It is also one of several Turkish restaurants listed and is found well beyond the city’s prime zones. “It’s not about luxury. London is an pricey city. There is an belief that in an expensive place you’re going to have the top service and best food but I do not believe in that,” says the owner.

“I feel what is most important is hospitality, kindness and a place you can be yourself and be calm.”

The sentiment is shared by the list’s curator, who suggested that if he were in a position of power, he would “require to have every chef in London train at this spot as a masterclass, to teach them the traps of excess, and to reveal what is achievable if you do a few – or three – things to their utmost best”.

A Journey of Perseverance

Unlike most chefs running kitchens in the list’s highest ranks, the driving force behind the food did not apprentice at Michelin-starred restaurants. “I am truly pleased of our shop and our mum,” concludes her son.

A lot of restaurants require years to find their footing, but this one first launched seven years ago. Its acclaim is due to tireless, seven-day weeks of dedication.

“Our mum would be really tired. She would source produce in the morning and prepare the food in the afternoon. Everything is handmade; she would do all of this. She is a single mother and she balanced a life outside work but her friends would come here to help her. She had children and a house to care for as well. Each of these duties shaped her into what she is now: a exceptional person,” he reflects.

An Recognition for the People

The restaurant’s success is bound to resonate beyond its own doors. “I think a lot of people would be happy, as I am, because the Turkish community is a significant part of London,” says the owner, emphasising the greater significance of this gastronomic triumph.